How to care for suede & nubuck – complete guide
Suede and nubuck have a soft, distinctive surface that requires a different approach to care than smooth leather. With the right brushing, cleaning and protection, the material can retain its texture, colour and character while being better protected from dirt and moisture. In this guide, we explain how to care for suede and nubuck step by step and when to use products such as Saphir Médaille d'Or Rénovateur Spray, Super Invulner, Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin.
What is the difference between suede and nubuck?
Suede and nubuck both have a soft, matte surface, but they are made from different parts of the leather. This affects their texture, appearance and how they behave in wear.
Suede
Suede is made by sanding the flesh side, or underside, of the leather to create its characteristic soft and velvety surface.
The result is a flexible material with a pronounced texture and a more relaxed appearance than smooth leather.
Nubuck
Nubuck is made by lightly sanding the grain side of the leather. This creates a fine, short and soft surface while retaining more of the structure of the grain layer.
As a result, nubuck can feel slightly denser and finer in texture than traditional suede.
Similar feel – different construction
Suede and nubuck can look very similar and are often cared for with the same types of products. Both benefit from regular brushing, suitable cleaning and protection that does not leave a heavy coating on the surface.
The key is to preserve the soft texture and avoid products intended for smooth leather, such as regular shoe cream and hard wax.
How often should suede shoes be cared for?
Suede and nubuck benefit from regular but gentle care. Rather than following a strict schedule, it is better to look at the condition of the shoes, how often they are worn and the weather they are exposed to.
Brush regularly
Brush away dust and loose dirt after wear or when the surface begins to look flat or dull. Regular brushing helps keep the fibres clean and restores the natural texture of the suede.
Protect when needed
A suitable protector helps shield suede and nubuck from moisture, dirt and stains. Apply to clean, dry shoes and reapply when the protection begins to wear off or after deeper cleaning.
Deep clean only when necessary
Deeper cleaning does not need to be part of every care routine. Use a suitable cleaner when regular brushing is no longer enough, for example with heavier dirt, stains or when the texture has been noticeably affected.
Little and often is better than too much at once
Regular brushing often reduces the need for stronger cleaning. Suede and nubuck do not need to be treated with product every time the shoes are worn – care for the material when it actually needs it.
Start with brushing
Brushing is the foundation of suede and nubuck care. It helps remove dust and loose dirt while lifting the fibres and restoring the natural texture of the material.
The right brush depends on how dirty the shoes are and how much the surface needs to be worked.
Regular brushing
For routine care, a soft brush designed for suede and nubuck is often enough. Gently remove dust and surface dirt and work in several directions to lift the fibres evenly.
View suede brush →Crêpe brush
A crêpe brush is especially useful when the suede has become slightly flat, shiny or lightly soiled. Its soft rubber-like surface helps revive the fibres without being unnecessarily aggressive.
View crêpe brush →Brass brush for greater need
A brass brush can be used when the fibres are more compressed or the surface needs stronger revival. Use it sparingly and with a light hand, especially on finer or more delicate suede.
View brass brush →Which brush should I choose?
Always start with the gentlest method. For regular care, a soft suede brush or crêpe brush is often enough. Move on to a brass brush only when the material genuinely needs more work.
Do not brush unnecessarily hard
Suede and nubuck should be revived, not worn down. Excessive pressure can affect the evenness and character of the surface. Use light pressure and repeat when needed instead.
Rénovateur Spray, Super Invulner & Omni'Nettoyant – when to use what?
Suede and nubuck care products perform different functions. Some are used for regular maintenance, while others are only needed when the shoes become dirty or require additional protection. Start with what the material actually needs.
Rénovateur Spray
When the suede looks dry, dull or lifeless
Rénovateur Spray conditions and refreshes suede and nubuck. Use it when the material needs its softness, colour and character revived.
The spray format allows the product to be distributed evenly across the surface without flattening the delicate fibres.
View Rénovateur Spray →Super Invulner
When the shoes need protection from moisture and dirt
Super Invulner is the protective treatment in the care routine. It helps protect suede and nubuck from moisture, dirt and stains without replacing cleaning or conditioning.
Apply to clean and dry shoes as the protective step after brushing and any necessary conditioning.
View Super Invulner →Omni'Nettoyant
When the shoes are more heavily soiled
Omni'Nettoyant is used for deeper cleaning. Use it when regular brushing is no longer enough, for example when dirt has worked into the material or the shoes require a more thorough clean.
It does not need to be used during every care session. Always begin with brushing and deep clean only when necessary.
View Omni'Nettoyant →Gommadin / suede eraser
For local stains and smaller marks
Gommadin works like an eraser for suede and nubuck. It is particularly useful for small local marks or stains when the entire shoe does not need to be cleaned.
Work gently on the affected area and brush the surface afterwards to restore its texture.
View Gommadin →Suede brush / crêpe brush
When the fibres are lying flat
If the suede has become flat or shiny, it does not always need more product. Often, simply brushing up the fibres is enough to restore the natural texture.
Begin with a gentle suede or crêpe brush and move on to stronger brushing only when genuinely needed.
View brushes for suede & nubuck →Do I need everything?
No. For regular care, brushing, Rénovateur Spray and Super Invulner will cover most needs.
Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin are used when the shoes require deeper cleaning or when a specific stain needs to be treated.
Brush → clean when needed → allow to dry → restore the nap → Rénovateur Spray → Super Invulner
Choose the right level of suede care
You do not need every product from the start. A simple care kit covers regular maintenance, while a more complete kit also provides everything needed for deeper cleaning and local stains.
Essential Suede Care
For regular conditioning, refreshing and protection of suede and nubuck.
- Rénovateur Spray
- Super Invulner
- Suede brush
A practical core kit for keeping suede shoes clean, refreshed and protected during regular wear.
Regular care · brushing · conditioning · protection
Complete Suede Care
A complete routine for conditioning, protection, cleaning and stain care.
- Rénovateur Spray
- Super Invulner
- Omni'Nettoyant
- Suede brush
- Gommadin
For anyone who wants everything required for both regular maintenance and more thorough cleaning when suede becomes dirty or marked.
Complete care · cleaning · stains · protection
You do not use every product every time
The Essential kit covers the care needed most often. In the Complete kit, Omni'Nettoyant and Gommadin are additional tools for deeper cleaning or treating a specific stain when necessary.
The care behind great shoes.
Quality shoes are made to be worn for years. With the right care, leather can maintain its suppleness, colour and character over time.
Since 1986, Hammargruppen has worked with quality footwear from some of Europe’s leading shoemakers. That experience is behind our selection of Saphir Médaille d'Or and the care routines we recommend.
Frequently asked questions about suede care
Can you waterproof suede?
Yes. Suede and nubuck can be treated with a product designed for the material. An impregnation spray like Super Invulner helps protect against moisture, dirt, and stains without leaving a heavy film on the surface. Always apply to clean and dry shoes.
How often should you waterproof suede shoes?
Apply waterproofing treatment as needed rather than on a fixed schedule. How often it is necessary depends on how frequently the shoes are used and the weather conditions they are exposed to. If the shoes are often worn in damp weather or following a deep cleaning, the protection may need to be reapplied.
How do you clean suede?
Always start by brushing away dust and loose dirt. Smaller marks can be treated with a suede eraser, while heavier dirt may require a specialized cleaning product such as Omni'Nettoyant. Let the shoes dry thoroughly after cleaning and then brush up the fibers again.
Can you use regular shoe polish on suede?
No. Traditional shoe cream and shoe wax are intended for smooth leather and can flatten the fibers and alter the appearance of the suede. Instead, use products specifically developed for suede and nubuck, such as Rénovateur Spray.
What is the difference between suede and nubuck?
Suede gets its soft surface from sanding the flesh or underside of the leather. Nubuck, on the other hand, is made by lightly sanding the grain side. Both materials have a soft, matte finish, but nubuck usually has a finer and denser texture.
How do you remove stains from suede?
Start with the gentlest method. Brush the area first and use a crepe brush or other suede eraser for minor local marks. If the stain is deeper, a more thorough cleaning, for example with Omni'Nettoyant, may be needed.
How do you restore the texture of suede?
If the fibers have matted down and the suede looks flat or shiny, the surface can often be restored by brushing. Use a suede brush or crêpe brush and work gently in different directions to lift the fibers. For more stubborn areas, a brass brush can be used sparingly and with a light touch.
Can suede shoes be worn in the rain?
Yes, suede shoes can be worn in light rain if they are well impregnated. However, suede is not waterproof, so prolonged moisture and heavy rain should be avoided. If the shoes get wet, let them dry naturally at room temperature and avoid radiators or other direct heat.
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