Essential Leather Care
A simple and effective foundation for regular care of smooth leather shoes.
- Crème Pommadier 1925
- Horsehair brush
- Applicator brush
- Polishing cloth
Hammargruppen Guides
How to Care for Leather Shoes – Complete Guide
Quality leather shoes are made to be worn for many years. With the right cleaning, conditioning and protection, the leather can retain its flexibility, colour and character over time. In this guide, we take you through leather shoe care step by step and explain the differences between Saphir Médaille d'Or Rénovateur, Crème Pommadier and Pâte de Luxe.
LEATHER CARE
How often should leather shoes be cared for?
There is no fixed schedule that suits every pair of leather shoes. How often they need care depends on how frequently they are worn, the weather, the material and the amount of wear they are exposed to.
As a general rule, brush your shoes after wear to remove dust and surface dirt. Apply shoe cream when the leather begins to look dry, dull or when the colour starts to lose depth.
For shoes worn regularly, light care every 5–10 wears can be a useful guideline. Deeper cleaning and conditioning are usually needed less frequently and should be done when the leather actually shows signs that it needs it.
GOOD TO KNOW
Signs your shoes need care
The leather looks dry or dull
The colour has started to fade
Creases and flex points look dry
The surface feels less supple
The shoes have been exposed to heavy rain, dirt or salt
The protective finish has started to wear away
OUR ADVICE
Care for the leather when needed – not by the calendar
Leather benefits from regular but moderate care. Too much product can build up on the surface, while too little care can allow the leather to dry out over time.
BEFORE SHOE CARE
Always begin with cleaning
Before applying fresh shoe cream or leather care, make sure the shoes are clean. Adding new layers of product on top of old polish, dust and dirt can gradually leave the surface heavy and uneven.
The amount of cleaning required depends on the condition of the shoes. A thorough brushing is often enough, while heavier dirt or older layers of shoe-care products may require a dedicated leather cleaner.
01
Brush away dust and dirt
After normal wear, brushing the shoes with a horsehair brush is often all that is needed. Brushing removes loose dust and dirt while helping to revive the existing finish on the leather.
02
Use a lightly damp cloth
For light dirt or surface marks, gently wipe the leather with a clean, lightly damp cloth.
Avoid soaking the leather. Allow the shoes to dry naturally at room temperature before applying any new shoe-care product.
03
Remove old product and heavier dirt
When several layers of shoe cream or wax have built up, or when more stubborn dirt needs to be removed, a dedicated leather cleaner may be necessary.
Choose a product designed for smooth leather, such as Saphir Médaille d'Or Leather Cleaner or a gentler cleanser depending on the level of cleaning required.
04
Do not clean more than necessary
Deep cleaning is not necessary every time you polish your shoes. Use it when the finish begins to feel saturated or uneven, or when regular brushing and light cleaning are no longer enough.
IMPORTANT
Never apply shoe care to wet leather
Always allow the shoes to dry naturally before applying Rénovateur, shoe cream or wax. Avoid radiators and other direct heat sources, as excessive heat can dry out the leather.
Using shoe trees while the shoes dry will also help them retain their shape and reduce creasing.
PRODUCT GUIDE
Rénovateur vs Pommadier vs Pâte de Luxe
These three products serve different purposes within a shoe-care routine. Rénovateur is primarily used for conditioning and deeper care, Crème Pommadier for regular maintenance and colour restoration, and Pâte de Luxe for additional protection and shine.
Product
Main purpose
When should you use it?
How often?
Rénovateur Crème
Conditions and nourishes
When the leather feels dry or needs deeper care
As needed
Crème Pommadier 1925
Conditions, restores colour and adds a light shine
For regular shoe care
Regularly
Pâte de Luxe
Protects and adds a higher shine
As a finishing step, mainly on the toe and heel
As needed
GOOD TO KNOW
Do I need all three?
No. For regular shoe care, Crème Pommadier and a good shoe brush are often enough.
For a more complete routine, use the products in this order: Rénovateur → Pommadier → Pâte de Luxe.
Rénovateur and Pâte de Luxe do not need to be used every time you polish your shoes. Use them when the condition of the leather and the desired finish call for it.
WHICH PRODUCT DO YOU NEED?
When should you use what?
Start with what the leather needs and the finish you want to achieve. You do not need to use every product each time you polish your shoes.
THE LEATHER FEELS DRY
Rénovateur Crème
Provides additional nourishment and helps restore suppleness when the leather feels dry, dull or in need of deeper care.
View Rénovateur Crème →
THE COLOUR NEEDS REFRESHING
Crème Pommadier 1925
A pigmented shoe cream that conditions the leather while helping to restore and even out the colour.
View Crème Pommadier →
I WANT MORE SHINE
Pâte de Luxe
Apply sparingly as a finishing step for additional protection and higher shine, mainly on the toe and heel where the leather flexes less.
View Pâte de Luxe →
I WANT A MIRROR SHINE
Mirror Gloss
For building a very high shine on the toe and heel. Apply in thin layers and gradually polish to the desired finish.
View Mirror Gloss →
STEP BY STEP
How to care for leather shoes
A regular and thoughtful care routine helps the leather maintain its suppleness, colour and character over time. Here we guide you through the process step by step – from shoe trees and brushing to shoe cream, wax and final polishing.
01
Insert shoe trees
Shoe trees help the shoes retain their shape and make the leather easier to work with during care.
02
Brush
Remove dust and loose dirt with a clean horsehair brush. Regular brushing is the foundation of good shoe care.
03
Clean when needed
If the shoes are heavily soiled or have built up many old layers of shoe-care products, use a suitable leather cleaner.
04
Condition when needed
Apply a small amount of Rénovateur Crème with a cloth or applicator brush. Allow the product to absorb, then brush afterwards.
05
Apply Crème Pommadier
Use a small amount. Work a thin, even layer into the shoe. Allow the cream to dry, then brush thoroughly with a horsehair brush.
06
Use wax for added protection & shine
Apply a thin layer of Pâte de Luxe, mainly on the toe and heel where the leather flexes less.
07
Polish
Brush or polish with a soft cloth until the desired shine is achieved. Work in calm, thin layers rather than applying too much product at once.
IMPORTANT
More product is not better
Several thin layers will usually give a better result than one thick layer. Too much product can make the finish heavy and harder to work up properly.
RECOMMENDED CARE ROUTINE
Choose the right level of leather care
You do not need to use every product each time you polish your shoes. A simpler routine is often enough for regular maintenance, while a more complete routine is useful when the leather needs additional conditioning, colour restoration and a higher shine.
Complete Leather Care
For conditioning, colour restoration, regular care and a more refined shine.
- Rénovateur Crème
- Crème Pommadier 1925
- Pâte de Luxe
- Horsehair brush
- Applicator brush
- Polishing cloth
GOOD TO KNOW
Already own a brush, polishing cloth or other accessories? You can of course buy the products individually and build the routine that best suits your shoes.
COMMON MISTAKES
Five things to avoid when caring for leather shoes
Good shoe care is as much about using the right amount and the right technique as it is about choosing the right products. A few common mistakes can leave the finish heavy, dry out the leather or create an uneven result.
01
Using too much shoe cream
More product does not automatically mean better care. A thick layer can build up on the surface and make the finish heavy and harder to polish. Use small amounts and work in thin, even layers instead.
02
Waxing the entire shoe heavily
Pâte de Luxe and other harder waxes are best used mainly on the toe and heel, where the leather flexes less. Too much wax over flex points can create a stiffer and less natural finish.
03
Choosing the wrong cream colour
Choose a shoe cream that is close to the colour of the leather. A noticeably different shade can alter the appearance, especially on lighter leather. If unsure, test on a less visible area first.
04
Applying care to wet shoes
Do not apply Rénovateur, shoe cream or wax to wet leather. Allow the shoes to dry naturally first so the products can work evenly and the surface is not unnecessarily affected.
05
Drying shoes next to a radiator or direct heat
Direct heat can dry the leather too quickly and gradually reduce its suppleness. Let the shoes dry at room temperature instead, ideally with shoe trees inserted to help them retain their shape.
HAMMARGRUPPEN · SINCE 1986
The care behind great shoes.
Quality shoes are made to be worn for years. With the right care, leather can maintain its suppleness, colour and character over time.
Since 1986, Hammargruppen has worked with quality footwear from some of Europe’s leading shoemakers. That experience is behind our selection of Saphir Médaille d'Or and the care routines we recommend.
Frequently asked questions about leather care
How often should you apply shoe polish to leather shoes?
It depends on how often the shoes are worn and under what conditions. Apply shoe cream when the leather starts to look dull or dry, or when the color begins to lose its depth. For shoes worn regularly, every 5–10 uses can be a good guideline.
What is the difference between Rénovateur Crème and Crème Pommadier?
Rénovateur Crème is primarily used for deep hydration and conditioning when the leather feels dry or needs extra nourishment. Crème Pommadier is used for regular shoe care and combines conditioning with pigments that help to restore and even out the color.
What is the difference between shoe cream and shoe wax?
Shoe cream, such as Crème Pommadier, is primarily used to nourish the leather and restore color. Shoe wax, such as Pâte de Luxe, is used above all for extra protection and higher shine.
Do I have to use Rénovateur before Crème Pommadier?
No. For regular day-to-day shoe care, Crème Pommadier is often sufficient. Rénovateur is used when needed if the leather feels dry or requires more deep-conditioning.
Can you use neutral shoe polish on all colors?
Neutral shoe cream can be used when you want to condition the leather without adding pigment. If the color has faded or developed minor marks, a pigmented shoe cream that is close to the shoe's color is usually a better choice.
Can you use Pâte de Luxe on the entire shoe?
Yes, but sparingly. Higher concentrations of wax are best suited for the toe and heel where the leather flexes less. Too much wax over flex points can result in a stiffer and less natural finish.
Can you care for leather shoes when they are wet?
No. Always let the shoes dry naturally at room temperature before applying Rénovateur, shoe cream, or shoe wax. Avoid radiators and other direct heat.
Do you need to clean leather shoes before every polish?
No. After normal use, it is often sufficient to brush away dust and loose dirt. Deeper cleaning is only necessary once dirt, old layers of shoe polish, or wax have built up.
How much shoe polish should one use?
A little goes a long way. It is better to apply a thin and even layer than a lot of product at once. Several thin layers usually provide a better and more natural result.
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